Crickhowell to Dolgellau

We left our Crickhowell lodgings on Sunday morning and set off on a pleasant drive north towards Dolgellau, travelling via Builth Wells and Rhayader. Full credit must go to London Sister, who took on all the driving. It made the journey relaxing for me, as I could sit back and enjoy the scenery.

Our first stop was Builth Wells, a place that brought back memories of a previous visit. Seventeen years ago, Clint, Bert and I came here for the Royal Welsh Smallholder and Garden Festival. It was hard to believe that it took me this long to return to Wales.

We stopped in a little town for lunch. Being Sunday, roast dinners were very much on the menu, so I ordered one. I wish I could remember where we ate, because the meal certainly made an impression. What arrived was a plate of food large enough to feed three people. I tried my best, but was unable to do it justice. Meanwhile, around us, several other couples were happily working their way through equally enormous portions and appeared to have no difficulty at all. I was amazed!

After lunch we continued northwards through the beautiful Welsh countryside, eventually arriving in Dolgellau. The town was very quiet when we arrived, but then it was Sunday afternoon. We parked in the market square and went in search of our accommodation. From the outside it looked very promising, tall, three-storey buildings of beautiful grey stone lining the streets.

Dolgellau immediately had an old-fashioned feel about it. I had no real idea what to expect from the town, but it turned out to be a delightful surprise. I have since read that some people find it a little too monochrome, but I loved it. To me, it felt like an authentic Victorian market town, with its historic architecture largely unchanged.

Most of the distinctive grey stone buildings that give Dolgellau its character today date from the 18th and 19th centuries, particularly between around 1750 and 1870. Built from locally quarried stone and slate, they give the town its wonderfully consistent appearance. 

Today Dolgellau has more than 200 listed buildings, making it one of the best-preserved historic towns in Wales. The narrow streets, tall stone houses and variations in the local stonework all reflect the town’s growth during its most prosperous period.

Our townhouse accommodation was just as promising inside as it had been outside. Our rooms were large and airy, with two comfortable beds and a pleasant sitting nook overlooking the street. It was exactly the sort of place you hope to find when exploring an old Welsh town.

On our first evening we wandered around Dolgellau and discovered the Catholic Church of Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows. I was really impressed by this building. Although it is only just over 50 years old, it seemed to blend beautifully with the much older stone buildings around it.

The church has a remarkable story. After the Reformation, Catholic life in the area had almost disappeared, and it was not until 1928 that Dolgellau again had a resident Catholic priest. This was Father Francis Scalpell, a Maltese priest who arrived with great determination and very little in the way of resources. Initially, Mass was celebrated in an old stable which was later adapted into a small chapel.

Through years of hard work and fundraising, Father Scalpell finally achieved his dream of building a permanent church. Constructed from local stone, Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows was completed and consecrated in 1970. It remains a lasting tribute to his faith, perseverance and dedication to the small Catholic community he served. Being Catholic we lit candles for a very special intention. Being pragmatic we were not looking for miracles, rather fortitude for those that will need it.

The following day our plan was to walk the popular Precipice Walk just outside the town. Despite the rather dramatic name, it was not quite as frightening as it sounds, although there were a couple of places where we had to negotiate rough stone sections carefully.

The views, however, were spectacular. The walk offered wonderful panoramas over the Mawddach Estuary, Cadair Idris and the surrounding mountains of Eryri (Snowdonia). The route passed through woodland, along rocky paths and past viewpoints that seemed to change at every turn.

The area is also a wonderful place for wildlife. We were lucky enough to see red kites soaring overhead. There is something very special about watching these magnificent birds gliding effortlessly above the Welsh hills.

Despite the popularity of the walk, the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly. Almost everyone we met was cheerful and ready for a chat, apart from the lady at the very beginning who warned us about horseflies! Her warning unnerved us, but thankfully we did not encounter any. In County Antrim we would call them clegs, and they are not creatures you particularly want to meet on a walk.

When we returned to Dolgellau, the town had a very different feel from the quiet place we had arrived at on Sunday. The streets were full of walkers and climbers, many setting off to explore the surrounding hills and trails. It was lovely to see the town with more life in it, yet it still retained the character of an old Welsh market town rather than feeling overwhelmed by visitors.

We also discovered that the friendliness extended beyond the streets. On our first evening we called into an Indian restaurant, only to find they were closing early. I asked if they would be open the following day, and an Asian lady assured us that they would be. It was just a small encounter, but it added to our impression of the warmth of the people we met.

In fact, with very few exceptions, almost everyone we met in Wales was genuinely lovely. (There is a little airport story to come!)

I was actually sorry to leave Dolgellau. We had found it welcoming, beautiful and full of character. It may not have the grand attractions of some better-known Welsh destinations, but for us it was one of those places that quietly gets under your skin.

I would happily recommend this lovely old town to anyone.