Trefor and the Unexpected Goats

 

Our next stop was Trefor, on the north coast of the Llŷn Peninsula. It was a short drive of just over an hour, so we arrived feeling fairly fresh.

We were staying in a little terrace of cottages with a stream running past the front. Another row of cottages faced us, each with its own lovely garden. Inside, the accommodation was fairly ordinary, but we each had our own bedroom and bathroom, which felt like a treat after sharing elsewhere on the trip.

The Lack of Eateries

Unfortunately, Trefor was rather short on places to eat. The aptly named Bert's Kitchen was closed until the weekend, which meant travelling across the peninsula for dinner. That shouldn't have been a problem, if it hadn't been for London Sister's adventurous (or perhaps pesky) sat-nav.

Instead of taking us along a sensible road, it directed us on to what gradually became a mountain track. It was a truly hair-raising drive. I lost count of the number of Memorares I recited, silently, of course, as my sister needed to concentrate on the wheelwork.

By the time we reached Dylan's in Criccieth I was in ribbons. Thankfully, the restaurant was lovely, the service was excellent and the food more than made up for the journey. I apologised to our server for arriving late, explaining that we'd accidentally taken the mountain road. The look on his face suggested we weren't the first people to offer that excuse.

Clifftops and Sea Stacks

The following day we headed for the beach and then climbed up on to the cliffs to see the sea stacks. They had been our goal from the outset, and they were well worth the walk. The views were spectacular, with seabirds wheeling overhead and the sea beneath us.

The Excitable Italian

On the walk we met a very enthusiastic Anglo-Italian hiker who now lives in Amsterdam. He was accompanied by his sister's delightful little dog and was full of praise for the beauty of the area.

One thing I noticed throughout Wales was the number of exceptionally handsome dogs. As every dog owner knows, all it takes to start a conversation is a compliment - directed at the dog rather than its human!

The Goats of Trefor

Our biggest surprise came on our last evening. As we stepped out of the cottage to go for dinner, a goat came trotting down the street. Then another. Then another.

At first we assumed they had escaped from a nearby farm, but they were nothing of the sort. They belong to a long-established feral herd that has roamed the hills around Yr Eifl (The Rivals), Nant Gwrtheyrn, Pistyll and Trefor for centuries.

The further we drove, the more goats we saw until it became clear we were watching an entire herd making its evening rounds. It was a wonderful and rather surreal sight.

When I looked into them afterwards, I discovered that they are considered a distinct local population. Researchers believe the herd has been relatively isolated for a long time, making it genetically different from other feral goat populations in North Wales. In recent years a monitoring project has begun to study their genetics, numbers and their impact on the landscape.

Like the famous Great Orme goats, these animals are genuinely feral. Nobody owns them. They survive by browsing shrubs, young trees, gorse and other vegetation rather than relying on people.

Since the Covid lockdowns they have become much bolder. With fewer people and cars around, they grew accustomed to wandering into villages and, even after life returned to normal, many continued to stroll through Trefor, Llithfaen and neighbouring gardens as if they owned the place.

Although they are much loved by local people and visitors alike, there is increasing concern that their numbers have grown. Recent surveys recorded an average of around 95 goats in the study area, considerably more than in the early 2010s. Conservationists are now trying to balance protecting this unique herd with safeguarding rare plants, allowing woodland to regenerate and ensuring the goats themselves remain healthy. Inevitably, there has even been discussion that culling may eventually be necessary if numbers continue to rise.

For now, though, they were simply one of the most memorable sights of our Welsh adventure.

Favourite moments: the spectacular clifftop walk to the sea stacks, the excellent meal at Dylan's after our white-knuckle drive, and unexpectedly finding ourselves sharing the streets of Trefor with a herd of wild goats.

Another Excellent Dinner: Our second evening produced another memorable meal, this time at The Llewelyn Restaurant in the Lion Hotel, Criccieth. The restaurant offered two menus: a traditional British menu and an authentic Indian one.

The Indian menu immediately caught my eye because it included Railway Curry, a dish I often make at home. I couldn't resist ordering it to see what an Indian chef would make of a curry I thought I knew well.

It was spectacular - the best Railway Curry I have ever tasted.