I
have been reading Jane Gardam, halfway through the Old Filth trilogy
and dipping into The Sidmouth
Letters. I actually thought I'd already
read
The Sidmouth Letters but it
turned
out I’d only got as far as the first story, The Tribute. And
what
a delight it was to return to it, for it is a most excellent piece of
story-telling and I plan to reread it before this week is out.
The
most recent Gardam story I read was about youngsters from privileged
backgrounds living the hippy lifestyle in Crete, in a place
called Matala.
I
asked Bert if he’d heard of it. He said,
Matala?
Yea, I was there in 1978.
Did
you live in the caves?
No.
By the time I got there, there was a fellow that
used
to chase the people out of the caves. I had my own cave a bit in
from the beach.
Was
this before or after Marseille?
Before.Yea.
I thought you’d have been put off caves by Marseille.
I
had to leave that one. Rats drove me out.
Rats?
Yea.
I kept bringing buns back to the cave. It brought rats.
See
you can take the boy out of Cullybackey but you can’t keep him away
from
the traybakes.
Was
the beach at Matala as gorgeous as they say?
Aye.
T’was. There was a
morning
I was there and this Swedish girl came up to me. Asked me for a
light. Naked as a jaybird.
Did
you give her one? A light I mean…
Aye.
She sat down beside me. I had everything on. And a duffel coat. I
could hardly look at her,
Was
she gorgeous?
She
was. Sand sticking to her shoulders and all.
I
thought you said you never looked at her?
Was
only a glimpse.
Later
on that day Swisser called and while Bert and she looked on I threw
together a Singaporean pork thingy I’d been thinking about which
involved pork, soy sauce, vinegar, massaman
curry paste, peppers, ginger, garlic, tomato paste and shredded
cabbage. Swisser said she’d have some despite being inclined to
vegetarianism and only allowing herself meat once every two years.
Believe that? Not I.
I
was telling her about what I’d been hearing about Matala and it
turns out she’d been there a few years before Bert, actually lived
in the caves for six months but had to leave because she got cholera,
dysentery, typhoid or some such and was advised by a fellow traveller
to make haste for Tel Aviv before she died,
Swisser's
stories always involve serious illness and near-death experiences.
either her own or someone else's. I didn't mention that
I'd
fried the pork in clarified butter and left all the fat on. God
knows what that
will have done to her gall bladder and
I expect
she's having a near-death experience this very minute.
'Hippies' at Matala. The young woman in the shades is the absolute spitting image of Swisser. After Matala, she checked herself into a kibbutz where she was tenderly nursed back to health.Postscript. Do I envy Swisser and Bert for their youthful travelling adventures? Short answer. YES!